FTO AUSTRALIA

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crosso wrote:So after 104 days at the mechanic and 3700 dollars later, I got my FTO back today. (dont comment please, I already feel stupid enough for being scammed so hard)

Anyway I've driven it around today only like 2 times. As I tried to leave the petrol station, it starts up, revs to about 700, then idles down to about 300-400. So I tried again and it still went very low, like 500 and then went back up to 1100 or so as per normal. I got home and tried again and it dropped and died. I figured I should ask for advice before I start fiddling around.
As it does this though, the battery light is on. I dunno whether it really is the battery or thats just the light turning on since I started the car.

I'm pretty damn angry about this and it's stress I really dont need at the moment. I'm really hoping its something simple otherwise I'm just gonna part it out/wreckers.

They did such a shoddy job too. Does $140 sound right for a combo switch? Or a Rocker Cover Gasket for $102?
They broke my engine cover too, so now its not even there and they wont replace it.

Sounds like stepper motor me thinks. Most idle problems seem to stem from there.

Rocker cover gasket for $102 is a rip. All you gotta do is remove the cover and replace the gaskets. Its just taking out plugs, and I think 8 bolts in a 6A12 Mivec from memory. Wouldnt be that long of a job I wouldnt think. Plus I doubt the gasket would be very expensive. No idea about combo switch mate.

Thanks for the quick response. I did some googling about fto stepper motors and I found that a symptom of a faulty one would be cutting out when cold. It was about 10 degrees when this happened and the car wasn't warm. Just FYI

What combo switch we talking about?
I guess it would be bad form (maybe even illegal, unsure) to name the mechanic, but it would be good to warn others away.

Doubt it would be illegal. Why would it be? If they did a sh*t job, they did a sh*t job thats their own fault.

Youve probably got sh*tty battery terminals, failing that alternator connections. Failing that alternator.

Battery light is the key, obviously not the stepper motor.

PHIL069 wrote:What combo switch we talking about?
I guess it would be bad form (maybe even illegal, unsure) to name the mechanic, but it would be good to warn others away.

I think it was the one to do with the steering/boss kit?
If that makes any sense

There's definitely not any FTO's near me lol its an hour inland from newcastle (nsw) but it was just the ford dealership.

This is also a good example as to why you should learn to DIY. If you don't have a trusted mechanic, you will almost always get screwed over by the mechanic.

If you don't mind me asking, what repairs were undertaken during the 104 days?

silverGPX wrote:Youve probably got sh*tty battery terminals, failing that alternator connections. Failing that alternator.

Battery light is the key, obviously not the stepper motor.

There you go then crosso, not the stepper.

Sounds like youve found your problem. Check terminals and connection to the alternator. How old is your battery? After barely being used after 104 days, it could be on the way out

Hey Crosso, it sounds like you could have been done wrong.........Fight back.....

Links from Fair Trading NSW.....
http://www.fairtrading.nsw.gov.au/Consu ... nance.html
http://www.fairtrading.nsw.gov.au/Consu ... putes.html
http://www.fairtrading.nsw.gov.au/About ... laint.html
http://www.fairtrading.nsw.gov.au/icms- ... pe=general

Quotes from Fair Trading NSW......
Loss/damage to vehicle
A dealer or repairer may be liable for loss or damage when this occurs while the vehicle is in the dealer’s or repairer’s, or a sublet repairer’s custody waiting for repairs under warranty.
If you believe that the repairer has acted in a dishonest or fraudulent manner you should report it to Fair Trading, who will investigate your complaint.
Obligations of repairer
A motor vehicle repairer has a responsibility, as with any other trade to ensure that the work carried out is done in a ‘workmanship like manner’. This is a responsibility brought under the Fair Trading legislation, other similar legislation, and common law.
If a part fitted by a workshop is defective, substandard or unfit for its intended purpose, and if it is the ‘cause’ of an accident, a customer (but not another person such as a passenger, pedestrian or subsequent owner of a vehicle) can bring a contractual claim against the workshop under section 74 of the Trade Practices Act 1974.
A claim could also be brought under section 74 if the workshop did not exercise due care and skill in carrying out repairs or testing.
Section 74 implies a non-excludable warranty into contracts for the supply of services by workshops to customers:
•that services will be carried out with due care and skill and
•that any components supplied in connection with those services will be reasonably fit for the purpose for which they are supplied.
Similar warranties are implied by common law into contracts for the supply of services by workshops.
For example, if a customer could establish that a workshop did not exercise due care and skill in fitting a disc brake calliper, or if the customer could establish that a disc brake rotor fitted by the workshop was below recommended minimum operating thickness, the workshop could be held liable to the customer under section 74 or under common law.

I just went for another drive, it did the same thing but didnt die, it slowly reved up to like 900 and idled there.
Since I went to maccas, waiting in the drive through it kept fluctuating from like 300-1000 almost dying at times just from sitting there

Does that still sound like the battery terminal/alternator cable/alternator silverGPX?
If so, what exactly is it I'm looking for? (I can take pictures and upload them here if need be)

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Vectose the repairs were:
- Fitted new combo switch, fixed horn wiring and blinkers not cancelling.
- Flushes and changed engine coolant, bled system and pressure test.
- Rotated and balanced wheels, 2 new tyres.
- Replaced timing kit, tensioners and pulleys, replaced faulty gaskets/seals
- Rego inspection
- Replaced front link rods
- Replaced combo switch (no other details provided)
- Replaced radiator
- Fixed engine oil leaks (rocker cover gasket, cyl head chamshaft seal, intake air surge gasket, cyl head spark plug seal.

Thats the itemised list on the recipt.
For all the parts it was 1844, and 1300 for labour. Then GST added another 300 :l

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Daniel2019 I'm not sure how old the battery is mate :S

$3700 and 104 days for that is WAY too much, all of that could be completed in a week, maximum 2 weeks and shouldn't have cost more than $2000.

Lets not create more issues.

Mate does the battery light ever come on while your driving or idling around?

Does it come on when u hit mivec as well?

I don't no if u have gpx or not.

silverGPX wrote:Lets not create more issues.

Mate does the battery light ever come on while your driving or idling around?

Does it come on when you hit mivec as well?

I don't no if you have gpx or not.

Sorry yeah its a GPX. I haven't actually revved it up past 5k, my exhaust is really (illegally) loud so i havent really had the chance yet.
So far I haven't noticed it come on whilst driving/mivecing

Vectose wrote:$3700 and 104 days for that is WAY too much, all of that could be completed in a week, maximum 2 weeks and shouldn't have cost more than $2000.

I know man. I have no automotive skills though so it was really my only choice.
it was pathetic, everytime I called they'd say it would be ready by a certain day, when that day comes I call them again they give me another date. This happened atleast 7 times.

Have a look to see if the vacuum line is off at the very back middle of the intake manifold. It plugs onto a sensor pretty much right behind it on the firewall.

(MAP sensor)

Mate if you ever need a hand with the car, some blokes from the club are more than happy to oblige for cash or even just beers depending on the job. I for one am happy to give a hand with regular fluid services (pretty much all I know how to do ).

If you ever need a hand with something (besides stuff like timing kit etc.) feel free to ask around on here, dare I say

Remind me not to take my FTO out past newcastle

silverGPX wrote:Have a look to see if the vacuum line is off at the very back middle of the intake manifold. It plugs onto a sensor pretty much right behind it on the firewall.

(MAP sensor)

Alright man thanks I'll check out the things you mentioned in the morning and post pics/updates as needed.

Daniel2019 wrote:Mate if you ever need a hand with the car, some blokes from the club are more than happy to oblige for cash or even just beers depending on the job. I for one am happy to give a hand with regular fluid services (pretty much all I know how to do ).

If you ever need a hand with something (besides stuff like timing kit etc.) feel free to ask around on here, dare I say

Remind me not to take my FTO out past newcastle

Thanks man but I could never pass a burden like this demon of a machine to a willing member haha. Plus I'm pretty far away from most and I doubt it would even make the journey.
If I do have to get rid of it I'll buy another FTO anyway, so I may aswell learn what I can from my first car

I go to Kurri TAFE for one week every 5 weeks and my class is full of third year mechs who live in the hunter

crosso wrote:Thanks man but I could never pass a burden like this demon of a machine to a willing member haha. Plus I'm pretty far away from most and I doubt it would even make the journey.
If I do have to get rid of it I'll buy another FTO anyway, so I may aswell learn what I can from my first car

Honestly, as phil said at the bonfire theyre a really easy car to love. I can say that I really do enjoy working on them, so im happy to do the basics. (Fluids - dont know sh*t all apart from that )

Oh sweet, thanks guys I'll keep it in mind.