FTO AUSTRALIA

I need to get these fixed eventually:

- Front and rear engine mounts split
- Rear trailing arm front bushes split
- Wheel alignment once the bushes are replaced.

Got a quote of $750 approx all up (including parts and labor and the alignment). He mentioned the rear trailing arm bushes will take around 1.5 hours each side...so 3hrs each side give and take...if they can be worked on (replaced) while they are on the car instead of taking them out. (???)

Is that a fair price?
Also, should I just go for the stock replacement parts he is getting me? Or should I replace them with some other awesome stuff which I don't know of?
AFAIK for the engine mounts, he is getting the new rubber and setting them in.

Also, EBC Greenstuff 2000 series good for our cars? (Street use, bit of spirited driving, want good braking in wet conditions and downhill drives). Any approx idea of cost for them and where do you guys usually source them from?

Any advice would be highly appreciated

http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=250
http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=256

Seems a little high to me. Do you live in NSW?

Thanks for your help Daniel. Am in Gold Coast.

I can ask him to break down the $750 so it reflects the parts cost. He did call up his distributor in front of me to get the parts quote. If I can get him the parts, he should be able to install them.

He has quoted 3hrs labor for the rear trailing arm front bushes and around 45mins labor for the front and rear engine mounts. Does the work time sound correct? 1.5hrs each side on the rear trailing bushes?

Is this the part I need for the rear trailing arm?
http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=262

So am guessing:
Rear trailing arm bushes http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=262 ($60 X2)=$120
Rear engine mount bush http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=256 ($44X1)= $44
Front engine mount bush http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=250 ($71.50X1)= $71.50
--
Total $235.50
Would that cost be correct for the parts or am I missing something?
(And if they are the correct part numbers I might order them in...they are listed under Evo 4-6 though?)

shadowarrior wrote:Thanks for your help Daniel. Am in Gold Coast.

I can ask him to break down the $750 so it reflects the parts cost. He did call up his distributor in front of me to get the parts quote. If I can get him the parts, he should be able to install them.

He has quoted 3hrs labor for the rear trailing arm front bushes and around 45mins labor for the front and rear engine mounts. Does the work time sound correct? 1.5hrs each side on the rear trailing bushes?

Is this the part I need for the rear trailing arm?
http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=262

So am guessing:
Rear trailing arm bushes http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=262 ($60 X2)=$120
Rear engine mount bush http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=256 ($44X1)= $44
Front engine mount bush http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=250 ($71.50X1)= $71.50
--
Total $235.50
Would that cost be correct for the parts or am I missing something?
(And if they are the correct part numbers I might order them in...they are listed under Evo 4-6 though?)

Trailing arm Im not sure as to the correct part or installation time, but the mount bushes sound about right.

I know that the mount bushes are the correct part because I asked Bennoz about them a few weeks ago. I would guess that the correct trailing arm part would be this http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=262

As it is Evo 1-3, same as the engine mount bushes. Also when you say front and rear engine mounts split, you mean those bushes yes? I dont know very much, all I know is that that info is from Bennoz who knows his stuff

It would be wise to double check, Im not very educated!

Cheers,
I'll poke Bennoz and double check with him

Yeah it was the rubber inside which has cracks. So...hmmm... ok hard for me to explain since I know sh*t about cars ...the engine looked like has fallen down a bit and there was lesser gap between it and a bar thingy underneath it? It was meant to be more gap between the bottom of the engine and that bar/metal thingy? If that makes any sense

I saw cracks on the rubber for those engine mount bushes as well as the rear trailing arm. I would say it's normal for rubber that old to give way and start getting cracked.

Daniel2019 wrote:http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=250
http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=vi ... ductId=256

Seems a little high to me. Do you live in NSW?

These are correct for engine mounts. They are a little dearer because they're proper MH90 grade hardness specific for Evos.
You will get a noticable increse in cabin vibration with these, but that cost is offset by the better throttle response you get from them.
Keep in mind they will need to press the old bushes out of the housings, and these new inserts in.

For trailing arms, I don't know if the early Evo stuff fits. I've never heard nor seen anyone do it. I'd hazard a guess & say they probably
would, half the other early Evo suspension bits fit, but I'd need to mic one up to be sure. Most of us use the poly bushes:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=5944&start=380

Part numbers for both brands are in the pics. The Nolathane stuff is available through Bursons, the Superpro stuff you can get through
Auto One & Repco. I'd say 1.5hrs per side is reasonable, there's just no way of sugar coating it, its a f*cking c*nt of a job!

Bennoz to the rescue!

Thanks Bennoz

f**k vibration, you had me at throttle response

shadowarrior wrote:Thanks Bennoz

f**k vibration, you had me at throttle response

I was thinking the same thing haha. Ohh.. makes the cabin sh- OMG THROTTLE RESPONSE

Daniel2019 wrote:

shadowarrior wrote:Thanks Bennoz

f**k vibration, you had me at throttle response

I was thinking the same thing haha. Ohh.. makes the cabin sh- OMG THROTTLE RESPONSE

LOL
there is a reason why they say 'ride hard and ride fast' and not 'ride soft and smooth'...that's for sissies

Off to get a quote from Burson for the Nolathane. They couldn't trace '46241' part number and said they have blue coloured Nolathane stuff. So going there with the pictures loaded in my phone

My mechanic was charging me $110 for each front and rear engine mount and is now scaring me that if those Meek Evo ones don't fit he will still charge me for the labor.
But Bennoz/Daniel you guys have fit them in, haven't you?

Got quoted $145.20 for the EBC Green Stuff 2000 series front pair (from Global Autospares). They have to bring it from Melbourne else the pair would have cost me 128.70

shadowarrior wrote:

Daniel2019 wrote:

shadowarrior wrote:Thanks Bennoz

f**k vibration, you had me at throttle response

I was thinking the same thing haha. Ohh.. makes the cabin sh- OMG THROTTLE RESPONSE

LOL
there is a reason why they say 'ride hard and ride fast' and not 'ride soft and smooth'...that's for sissies

Off to get a quote from Burson for the Nolathane. They couldn't trace '46241' part number and said they have blue coloured Nolathane stuff. So going there with the pictures loaded in my phone

My mechanic was charging me $110 for each front and rear engine mount and is now scaring me that if those Meek Evo ones don't fit he will still charge me for the labor.
But Bennoz/Daniel you guys have fit them in, haven't you?

I dont have the fitted, I am planning on ordering those when I get some cash. There isnt a lot Bennoz doesnt know about FTOs, and if he says that a part is correct then I trust him. I would think Ben has them fitted, however lets wait for a reply and see

shadowarrior wrote:

Daniel2019 wrote:

shadowarrior wrote:Thanks Bennoz

f**k vibration, you had me at throttle response

I was thinking the same thing haha. Ohh.. makes the cabin sh- OMG THROTTLE RESPONSE

LOL
there is a reason why they say 'ride hard and ride fast' and not 'ride soft and smooth'...that's for sissies

Off to get a quote from Burson for the Nolathane. They couldn't trace '46241' part number and said they have blue coloured Nolathane stuff. So going there with the pictures loaded in my phone

My mechanic was charging me $110 for each front and rear engine mount and is now scaring me that if those Meek Evo ones don't fit he will still charge me for the labor.
But Bennoz/Daniel you guys have fit them in, haven't you?

Got them in both my FTOs mate, they fit.

http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_det ... mber=46241 for the red

http://www.superpro.com.au/find-superpr ... t/SPF1574K for the blue

And if you look at the model fitments listed in the Superpro site, it says it also fits early Evo, so there you go, everyday's a school day

Bennoz wrote:

shadowarrior wrote:

Daniel2019 wrote:

shadowarrior wrote:Thanks Bennoz

f**k vibration, you had me at throttle response

I was thinking the same thing haha. Ohh.. makes the cabin sh- OMG THROTTLE RESPONSE

LOL
there is a reason why they say 'ride hard and ride fast' and not 'ride soft and smooth'...that's for sissies

Off to get a quote from Burson for the Nolathane. They couldn't trace '46241' part number and said they have blue coloured Nolathane stuff. So going there with the pictures loaded in my phone

My mechanic was charging me $110 for each front and rear engine mount and is now scaring me that if those Meek Evo ones don't fit he will still charge me for the labor.
But Bennoz/Daniel you guys have fit them in, haven't you?

Got them in both my FTOs mate, they fit.

http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_det ... mber=46241 for the red

http://www.superpro.com.au/find-superpr ... t/SPF1574K for the blue

And if you look at the model fitments listed in the Superpro site, it says it also fits early Evo, so there you go, everyday's a school day

Nice Thanks again Ben.
Did you find the adjustable Nolathanes better than the SuperPro? (I think the red colour itself should add some hp )

Also, is that a good price on the Green stuff ($145.20)? Or should I shop around more?

@Daniel, I think I should drive down to NSW and get both of our cars worked on for the engine mount etc Am waiting on Mr ATO to sponsor this repair work.

Much of a muchness on the poly bushes mate, they're both very similar in hardness.

That is a good price for EBC pads, last set I bought was closer to $200.

If you really want, with the lower engine mounts, if you want to order them & have them shipped to my place, I've got a set of exchange housings I can press them into & then ship them to your mechanic, then all your mechanic has to do is direct swap them. Just in return I ask that you send me your old ones, so I can keep the exchange system going

@shadow - I was planning to do the same thing that Bennoz offered. In terms of changing over the bushes, I dont know how to do it. I was planning on getting the missus' dad to do it, or just adding it to the bill of my next service. You might be able to find someone in the club to do it for a discount/case(s) of beer, etc.

@Ben, Thanks mate done deal. Pm me your address and I will get those bushes posted to your place. And I will post you back the housings from mine. I might wait out a bit for Mr Ato to sponsor some of the stuffs.

@Daniel, yeah I might add it to my bill as well. Its due for a major service. So might take it to the shop and get engine oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid changed, radiator flushed, and add the engine mount and trailing arm bush to that bill as well.

shadowarrior wrote:@Ben, Thanks mate done deal. Pm me your address and I will get those bushes posted to your place. And I will post you back the housings from mine. I might wait out a bit for Mr Ato to sponsor some of the stuffs.

@Daniel, yeah I might add it to my bill as well. Its due for a major service. So might take it to the shop and get engine oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid changed, radiator flushed, and add the engine mount and trailing arm bush to that bill as well.

All fluids can be DIY mate

Hmm true... But no ramps or pump to help bleeding the brakes or get under the car can be done on diy day with someone's ramp though.

Sent from my Galaxy Note via Tapatalk.

shadowarrior wrote:Hmm true... But no ramps or pump to help bleeding the brakes or get under the car can be done on diy day with someone's ramp though.

Sent from my Galaxy Note via Tapatalk.

Does your FTO get up on ramps without scraping? Mine doesnt, on either sets of my ramps. Just jack it up and use engine stands.

Bleeding brakes can be done yourself too. As far as I know, dont you just unhook the hose, pump the brake until its all out then put the hose back and refill? Its an effort but its doable for about 10 bucks for the fluid.

Just did my coolant again, no worries. Oil is no problems. Power steering fluid is just a top up. Can save yourself money on that kinda stuff.

Having said that, I wouldnt trust myself with other stuff.

TL;DR - use a jack and stands.