FTO AUSTRALIA

So I took Nick's FTO for a drive the other day, and he took mine for a drive.
they are both Manual GPXs, the only difference being his is a 95, and mine is a 96.
in Nick's the gear box is very smooth, and easy to move, and the clutch has quite a smooth pick-up.
in mine, the gear box is very notchy, and harder to move, and the clutch is very quick to pick-up.
Does anybody know what would cause these differences?

This is just really curiosity...

different clutches, different oil, different age and wear characteristics

Would the oil make that much of a difference?

Technikhaus wrote:Would the oil make that much of a difference?

If it hasn't been changed in a while or if it isn't the right grade it can. Mine was pretty notchy when I first got it, but after an oil change and clutch fluid flush and bleed, it was like a new gearbox.

Technikhaus wrote:Would the oil make that much of a difference?

Constants;

Identical mechanically.

Variables;

Oil, clutch, differing degrees of wear (bearings, synchro)

^ Any or a combination of all.

Start with a 5 minute oil change, if that doesnt help your selector cables & bracket could be worn / fucked.

I may look at doing the gearbox oil later this week then...
so obvious next question then... what's the best oil to use, and how much of it?

I did a diy on it too to follow look in diy

I read it, but I didn't see what oil to get?

The owners handbook states........2.2 litres SAE75W/85W (GL-4)........is this correct?

hmm thanks for that, I'm guessing that this may do the job then?

http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online- ... escription

edit:
or this

http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/online- ... ?pid=30513

No u need fully synthetic nulon, non hypoid.

Do a search boys, only been covered about a dozen times

Personally I use MOTUL Gear FF-LSD Competition Type 2 in the race car, not cheap but not something you're going to change very often. Of course this is with a Cusco LSD. If you don't have LSD you don't need something this expensive, still it's not going to hurt.

Key thing to remember is the oil needs to be suitable for hypoid gears.

And do not use Penrite SIN 75 Gear Oil (not if you value your synchros that is!).

silverGPX wrote:No you need fully synthetic nulon, non hypoid.

Incorrect, we run a hypoid gear set on the diff.

Bad memory, i remember i researched this for weeks. In the end i ended up gettinf a nulon oil and i got the nulon paste coating sh*t to squirt in for the synchros as well.

From the manual

Transmission oil:
Hypoid gear oil SAE 75W-85W conforming to API classification GL-4 or higher

Nulon lube guide states......(no FTO listed)

MITSUBISHI
Galant HJ V6-24, 2.0 Litre V6 Eng. (1993-1996)

FULL SYNTHETIC 75W-85 SMOOTH SHIFT MANUAL GEARBOX & TRANSAXLE OIL
Is an extreme pressure API GL-4 fully synthetic gear oil, with superior high temperature stability when compared to conventional mineral gear oils. Ideal for use in transaxle applications with combined manual gearbox and differentials

I have to do my oil as well soon too Shane, was looking at the motul or cusco equivelant - if you recommend the motul then i guess ill opt for that

Castrol Lube guide states.........(again no FTO)

MITSUBISHI
Galant HJ V6-24, 2.0 Litre V6 Eng. (1993-1996)

CASTROL VMX-M 75W-85
Wide ranging high performance multigrade manual transmission fluid specifically formulated to meet and overcome the problems of cold shift performance as well as meeting the factory fill and service requirements of Mtisubishi manual transmissions and transaxles. For manual transmissions where GL-4 SAE 75W, 75W-80 or 75W-85 are recommended.
Service Refill Capacity: 2.0 Litres.
See notes 508, 710 below.

508 May also use CASTROL SYNTRANS 75W-85.
710 May also use CASTROL VMX 80.

No matter what oil you choose it needs to be suitable for hypoid gears.

In my case I also needed LSD so this narrowed the options considerably. I tried the Penrite which according to their specs was suitable. After one race meeting I drained the oil to check it and it had turned metallic bronze in color (guess what color synchros are lol). I then switched to the more expensive Motul and never had a problem since.

But do a search, can't remember what Ben is using but it's also served him well.

Also if you do some research you will find that Mitsubishi synchros are quite sensitive to the oil that's used. So be careful what you choose.