FTO AUSTRALIA

I need the rear trailing arm bushes replaced because they are split. Reading through Technikaus' thread and Bennoz's post in the suspension thread, I am planning to pick up the Nolathane parts to get that offset.

Did a bit of reading on the suspension and I picked up some points:

If am changing one of the bushes, I need to change all with same grade stuff else it will tear the old ones off.

Not sure which parts I do need to change though, so I have got an idea. I'll book it for the Pedders quick check, and get that list. That should tell me what bushes needs to be replaced am guessing?

That's the list from the thread. Need to find part numbers for Nolathane:

SPF1160 Front Control Arm - Inner Front Bushing x 2
SPF1500 Front Control Arm Lower - Rear Bushing x 2
SPF1344 Front Sway Bar Mount To Chassis Bushing (16k) x 2
SPF2092B Rear Sway Bar Link Bushing Kit x 2
Rear Sway Bar Mount To Chassis Bushing (18k) x 2 (which one do I need for the GPX?)
SPF1574 Rear Trailing Arm - Front Bushing x 2

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Nolathane parts:
Front Control arm - lower inner front bushing 45365
*Front Control arm rear has different types....which one? (Round or Square ones?)
Front Sway bar - link bushing 42032
*Front and Rear Sway bar mount to Chassis bushing. Don't know which one from the Nolathene website.
Rear Trailing arm - front bushing 46241
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* --> need to find out which part number to order.


I know my rear trailing arm bush needs to be replaced. So if I put Nolathane rear trailing arm front bushes, and all my other bushes are all right, do I still need to replace this whole list to keep the grading (for equal wear and tear) through out?


And I need a generic steering boot (is that what it's called?) and a inner left cv boot (is that what it's called?) replaced as well because they are leaking. Are they generic stuff from Supercheap, or are they vehicle/model specific. Any part numbers for these?

I want to try and replace the cv boot and steering boot by myself. The rest of the bushes (control arm/trailing arm, etc) I would need to take it to a mechanic I suppose? I want to get all the parts and take the parts to the mechanic then.

Am I heading in the right direction?

That one there is the one that I got, as you mentioned, it's the offset one

Thanks Technikaus

Was it a pain in the ass job to get the trailing arm out? If I can manage to get the trailing arm out, I can take it to a mechanic and have the new bushes pressed..and then install the arm back by myself?

shadowarrior wrote:Thanks Technikaus

Was it a pain in the ass job to get the trailing arm out? If I can manage to get the trailing arm out, I can take it to a mechanic and have the new bushes pressed..and then install the arm back by myself?

Any noompty can do it Sidd's, just requires extra time and confidence.

You have an extra car don't stress.

It goes back the same way it came out but in reverse + you got a toolbox now so no excuse

silverGPX wrote:

shadowarrior wrote:Thanks Technikaus

Was it a pain in the ass job to get the trailing arm out? If I can manage to get the trailing arm out, I can take it to a mechanic and have the new bushes pressed..and then install the arm back by myself?

Any noompty can do it Sidd's, just requires extra time and confidence.

You have an extra car don't stress.

It goes back the same way it came out but in reverse + you got a toolbox now so no excuse

don't forget the jack and car stands!!

shadowarrior wrote:

silverGPX wrote:

shadowarrior wrote:Thanks Technikaus

Was it a pain in the ass job to get the trailing arm out? If I can manage to get the trailing arm out, I can take it to a mechanic and have the new bushes pressed..and then install the arm back by myself?

Any noompty can do it Sidd's, just requires extra time and confidence.

You have an extra car don't stress.

It goes back the same way it came out but in reverse + you got a toolbox now so no excuse

don't forget the jack and car stands!!

Haha.

Make sure you jack it up from a good place like the trailing arm, nice and strong

It can be fiddly, but it's not too bad, you may want someone to help though.

C*nt of a job!

Don't forget the WD40, big ass breaker bar, maybe some turbo sockets and lots of money for the swear jar.

For us, it was a damn huge breaker bar, sockets from the rattle gun, and a torque wrench. didn't need any WD40 as the breaker bar made up for that.

Oh damn...that's scary.
Don't have any breaker bar/rattle gun/turbo sockets/torque wrench. But have tons of WD40 and a pretty big swear jar. Hmmm...

Get a breaker bar, best tool you can own.

And i'd chime in with a "I got mine off with a spanner"

Sahin wrote:And i'd chime in with a "I got mine off with a spanner"

Cool, will come over to your place then. j/k

Btw, how does the headlight look in daylight? Took any pics?

I've got to change driver side sway bar link on the Pajero this weekend.

shadowarrior wrote:Oh damn...that's scary.
Don't have any breaker bar/rattle gun/turbo sockets/torque wrench. But have tons of WD40 and a pretty big swear jar. Hmmm...

Not trying to scare you dude. It's actually a fairly straightforward assembly and reassembly process.....it's just a pain in the ass getting bolts off (sometimes in awkward positions) that are designed to be tight. Coz they're so tight there's always a danger of rounded bolt heads.

If you go ahead with it don't forget a wheel alignment too.

I'm hoping I can afford a wheel alignment this week, although it isn't driving too badly.

Nacho wrote:

shadowarrior wrote:Oh damn...that's scary.
Don't have any breaker bar/rattle gun/turbo sockets/torque wrench. But have tons of WD40 and a pretty big swear jar. Hmmm...

Not trying to scare you dude. It's actually a fairly straightforward assembly and reassembly process.....it's just a pain in the ass getting bolts off (sometimes in awkward positions) that are designed to be tight. Coz they're so tight there's always a danger of rounded bolt heads.

If you go ahead with it don't forget a wheel alignment too.

Thanks mate Any info about the job is appreciated. Would help me tons to be prepared instead of getting stuck midway. I am a complete noob when it comes to mechanical work on the car

I have added a breaker bar to my purchase list. Will this do? http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... 1302#Cross
Or I can find a pipe shop and get a long strong piece of pipe and use my existing socket set.

Trying to find the turbo sockets. What's the best place to buy them from? Any approx price idea?

Do I have to take any readings before I start the work? Or can I drive it down to a wheel alignment shop (Bob Jane?) after the work is done and they will know the adjustments?

Right now, my car has a slight pull to the left if I take my hands off the steering wheel. Also, going over the parking lot speed bumps sometimes make my steering wheel go crazy.

Isn't the car meant to pull left slightly? Not like, into a tree if you let go for a second, but a bit?

bjk wrote:Isn't the car meant to pull left slightly? Not like, into a tree if you let go for a second, but a bit?

Is it? I didn't know that. It pulls slightly.....like you can see it starting to go off the straight lane. But the Pajero keeps going straight in the same test scenario.

shadowarrior wrote:

bjk wrote:Isn't the car meant to pull left slightly? Not like, into a tree if you let go for a second, but a bit?

Is it? I didn't know that. It pulls slightly.....like you can see it starting to go off the straight lane. But the Pajero keeps going straight in the same test scenario.

If it pulls slightly just smash that side into a gutter at 80kmph... that'll straighten it out...

I used a piece of PVC tubing I had lying around to get the bolts of my headers off, just to make things a bit easier.

I also bought one of these a while back. It is more powerful than the cordless ones and even the cheap air ones.

I won the auction for $80.