FTO AUSTRALIA

Hi All,

Need to adjust the tappets, doing all sorts of noises. Also, changing the back spark plugs.
I am willing to do this job myself. Although, I have never involved with engine this deep, I am not shy to get my hands dirty and learn.
Also, two of my friends will be supervising me during the process. Both did tappet adjustments to their cars, however, none has worked on an FTO ar V6 before. Honda integra, and an old BMW.
One of the main purpose of this exercise is also build a complete DIY of "How to Adjust the Bloody Tappets"

I need your experience/knowledge to confirm the steps of the process, as well as tools I need.

Tools to have;
Home made tappet tool; http://www.funky-fto.co.uk/tool.html
Filler gauge
Lots of socket set, screw drivers
Torque Wrench
Workshop Manuals

Now, I am following the manual; page 11A-8
1) Remove the air intake plenum
Assuming plenum fancy word means Intake pipe and box.

2)Remove all of the spark plugs
Do I need a special tool for the spark plugs or usual spark plug socket is OK? Also I guess removing aly the front three at this point.

3)Remove the timing belt upper covers.
Doesnt sound hard.

4)Turn the crankshaft clockwise to allign....
How do I turn the crankshaft, just by turning the a/c belt with my hand?

5)Remove the rocker cover.
I guess this is the section where I have to remove intake manifold; goto page 15-4

6)dont look hard
7)dont look hard
8)dont look hard
9)dont look hard
....

I will ask few more questions as aboves answered.

Thanks all.

for the "special tool" i found it easier to get a deep 10mm socket and angle grind a chunk out of its side to accomodate the room the cams take... much easiers than welding stuff together

you'll realise what i mean when you do your tappets..

simon

Few more questions;

- Do I have to replace any gasket, due to the reason that removing the intake manifold?
- Do I have to drain the coolant from the engine before removing the intake manifold?
- Do I need to worry about Fuel Discharge Prevention process?

I have to do the adjustment while the engine is cold. What about removing the intake manifold? I remember hearing that engine needs to be worm before attempting to remove it.

Thanks for your time answering my questions guys.

Few more questions;

- Do I have to replace any gasket, due to the reason that removing the intake manifold?

Always a good idea to have one handy - just incase you rip the exisiting one. Re-using the existing one is ok.

- Do I have to drain the coolant from the engine before removing the intake manifold?

Not if you remove the throttle body from the intake - it is the only part connected to the water lines. I always take it off. Its only 5 bolts

- Do I need to worry about Fuel Discharge Prevention process?

No - the fuel lines & rails remain in place for this job

I have to do the adjustment while the engine is cold. What about removing the intake manifold? I remember hearing that engine needs to be worm before attempting to remove it.

The intake must come off - 9 or so bolts throught the front of it & 4 real 'pain in the ass' bolts that go through the back of it onto a stiffener bracket. Also a number of electrical plugs that need to come off.

Thanks for your time answering my questions guys.

Personally I would do the job with the engine warm - just bear in mind the tappet clearnaces for a warm motor are different to cold - they are in the book. It just so much easier undoing them when warm.

I seem to be able to find only one adjustment figure in the book which is for cold engine;
Standard value (between low speed cam and roller)
Intake valve: 0.10 mm
Exhaust Valve: 0.13 mm

Valve side clearance:
Intake Valve: 0.16 mm
Exhaust Valve: 0.21 mm

Also, In the book, there is a picture of funny looking tool, its like a tiny long pipe with a big ball attached at the end. It is called "Rocker arm piston checker" - MB991479
Do I need to use a this tool at all?

The adjusment process in english.....

You need – Feeler Gauges , A 10mm ring spanner bent to 90 degrees at the ring side , A pair of mole grips and a cross head screw driver.

1) First draw yourself a simple diagram of the 12 sets of 2 valves so it’s easy for you to understand.
2) Now select a set of valve where the peaks of the cam lobes are not touching the followers, in other words, the valves are fully shut. There should be about 3 or 4 sets like this
3) Using the bent spanner and grips, loosen the adjusting screw lock nuts and back off the adjusting screws
4) Insert the feeler gauge into the clearance between the low speed cam (narrower cam) and the roller (0.1mm intake 0.13mm exhaust)
5) Screw in one of the two adjusting screws until it begins to contact the valve (the screw just begins to be tightened hard)
6) Screw in the other adjusting screw until it contacts the valve , then tighten the lock nut
7) Loosen the screw which has been screwed up in step 5 until it turns freely, then re-tighten until it contacts the valve again. Now tighten the lock nut
8. Remove the feeler gauge
9) Now mark off the set you’ve done on your diagram
10) Repeat for all sets of valves not forgetting to mark off the valves that have been adjusted
To turn the engine over so other valves can be adjusted, I put the car in gear and pushed it. If you do it this way, leave room to move the car .Or use a socket and wrench on the Crankshaft pulley (not the camshaft one)You can also turn the
Engine on the starter motor ,just make sure everything is clear!