FTO AUSTRALIA

I'm no expert, but I am fairly logical and also have a basic understanding of physics. I have read the various topics and threads on air filters, but to me there seems to be some issues people are missing, and I would like some help in having them clarified.

As we know, the better the car can breathe, and the denser the air the engine receives, the more powerful / efficient the engine can be. However it seems to me that some of the options talked about in this forum could actually lead to a decrease in performance / efficiency. It would also appear that some of these changes would bring about different results in a static dyno test versus real driving situations.

The two biggest issues seem to be the ability for the car to suck the air in, and the temperature of it - both of which greatly affect the density of air reaching the combustion chamber.

In any static test, where the car is not moving, such as a dyno test, the air around the car is fairly still and therefore as the engine sucks it in, it pretty much gets what it needs. But in a real life situation, the faster you drive, the quicker the air is rushing past the air intake. If the air intake is pointing straight at the oncoming air flow, then the density of the air is increased as it is coming at a higher pressure. However, if the air intake is offset to the side, then the amount of force required to suck the same amount of air in would need to increase. As the suction from the engine remains the same, regardless of induction system used, this would mean that less air (lower density) is reaching the engine as you continue to increase speed.

Similarly, with the bonnet of the car closed, the heat builds up within the engine bay, meaning the air within the bay will be of a lower density. Yes, I have seen some of the heat shields, but these are only blocking direct heat from the radiator, and despite this the ambient heat of the air in the engine bay is greater than that of the external air.

Let me repeat again, that I am no expert, and what I am seeking here is information and help, not to be shot down in flames. But it would seem to me that the most logical way of increasing performance, via means of improving air flow, would be to have hosing, that pointed straight forward, coming from the front bumper of the car, and running to a high performance air filter that was enclosed, not open. By keeping the enclosure, it ensures that only the cold air from outside gets to it, while also increasing the pressure / density of that air further as it is prevented from escaping.

At the risk of being abused, it would appear that simply replacing your air box with a pod filter could lead to performance decreases in a real world scenario, as the air is either rushing past it or is warmer and therefore less dense. Yes, I understand that most pod filters claim kW improvements, but aren't they tested with a static dyno test, where the air is still?

If I am wrong, then please enlighten me, but if I am right, why is everyone removing their air box and adding pod filters? Wouldn?t keeping your air box (or getting a bigger one), along with changing the standard filter to a high performance one and re-directing the hosing to the front bumper be a better option? After all isn't it cold, pressurised, dense air that we are seeking?

P.S. sorry this message was so long

Just my take on this subject:

In any static test, where the car is not moving, such as a dyno test, the air around the car is fairly still and therefore as the engine sucks it in, it pretty much gets what it needs.

dyno runs are not implemented without cooling fans to simulate rushing air into the engine/intake (as if the car is in motion), hence the air around the car is not 'still'.

But it would seem to me that the most logical way of increasing performance, via means of improving air flow, would be to have hosing, that pointed straight forward, coming from the front bumper of the car, and running to a high performance air filter that was enclosed, not open. By keeping the enclosure, it ensures that only the cold air from outside gets to it, while also increasing the pressure / density of that air further as it is prevented from escaping.

by doing so you are effectively allowing objects like dust/water/suicidal birds to be fed into the intake chamber and cause major damage to the filter (and possibly the car) and depending on what material the enclosure was made from, it could also affect the overall efficiency/ability of the filter to suck in the air...

Yes, I have seen some of the heat shields, but these are only blocking direct heat from the radiator, and despite this the ambient heat of the air in the engine bay is greater than that of the external air

true, but the heat shield is not just for blockng heat from the radiator - it is used to block the ambient heat from the engine itself or where applicable, the turbocharger. most ppl who through the trouble of making a heat shield for the filter will most probably have some kind of CAI incorporated into it by an intake pipe mounted somewhere at the bottom or front to feed cooler air from outside the car.

I would love to know what the temperature difference is between a pod with no heat shield/box and one with and what the power difference is. I didn't think there would be a lot in it.

Hey,

I'll say just put a pod in it and see what you think.

Once you know there are definately an increase in power, will post what could be the reason.

Untill you experience it your self, you are not going to believe it!

I think so any way...

Cheers,

Given that the FTO has a cold air intake leading to the air filter box, why not just replace the standard filter with a high performance one?

Why ditch the air box and go for a pod, which will be breathing in warmer air from the engine bay?

ruchi wrote:Given that the FTO has a cold air intake leading to the air filter box, why not just replace the standard filter with a high performance one?

Why ditch the air box and go for a pod, which will be breathing in warmer air from the engine bay?

Because it has been dyno proven that a pod filter (open air and all) has given better performance than the stock air box with high performance filter or not.

Check out this link:

http://www.ftooc.org/contents/pages/project/filter.htm

They have managed to prove that the stock air box can be fairly restrictive.

Thankyou to all who have replied, your information has been most helpful.

And thankyou for being helpful, and not "flaming" me for my lack of knowledge.

No worries man....always willing to a lend a hand to a fellow FTO'er!

Hey,
This is a heat shield question.
I was at Autobarn today getting my airfilter (ONLY 99BUX!!) and i noticed they had a heat shield for $55.
Is getting a heatshield worth it? Will there be any performance gains?

Cheers
Tim

TimmyD,
$99??!? wow...
what type of Pod filter did you get? do you have a GR or GPX?
is that just the filter or did it come with the bracket?
which autobarn shop??
sorry for all the Q's... feel like getting one now for that price [/quote]

TimmyD,
$99??!? wow...
what type of Pod filter did you get? do you have a GR or GPX?
is that just the filter or did it come with the bracket?
which autobarn shop??
sorry for all the Q's... feel like getting one now for that price [/quote]

Umm, i got a K&N pod filter and i have a GPX
It came with everything it needed to be mounted (As far as i can tell).
all i gotta go is take off the standard box (4 clips and a screw, easy enough) and connect the pod onto the pipe (which was origanally connected to the box) end tighten 1 screw, and vowla.

I got it from Fountain Gate AutoBarn but i think all autobarns will have the same price (i think there having a sale but im not sure)

Cheers
Tim

thanks Tim, I'll give the nearest AUtobarn shop a call and hopefully they charge me the same price!... i assume the FTO has a 3" inlet??
anyways... I'll give them a call now =)
cheers!
another Q.. sorry for my ignorance... but does the K&N pod filter all come the same size (length width etc)?? if not.. which one did you get... and if they're not the same... does it mean.. one is better than the other???

i guess the question is "DOES SIZE MATTER"

np,
umm, i think there are 2 dif sizes (pods) for 2 dif types of cars or summin, but the one your after has a 3" inlet and should have a sticker on the box that says RE-0930.
It also has a black plastic top with a rubber mount,
The other filter you dont want is the one with a metal cap.

Cheers
Tim

just to let ya know... when you get it your going to need a 75mm(3inch) to 90mm (3.5inch) PVC thing. like, from smallend (3") to big end (3.5").

You can get it from Bunnings for $2.80

I just finished installing my filter, took it for a little "easy" drive, and it sounds GREAT! and yes, you can feel the difference

Now... back to my questions about the heatshield...

and i noticed they had a heat shield for $55.
Is getting a heatshield worth it? Will there be any performance gains?

Cheers
Tim

I bougth one yesterday at autobarn... when I tried to install it... yes it was too small does K&N pod filters come in 3.5" inlet so that it's just a straight swap?? or do I have to use the PVC??? if PVC... how did you make sure that the hose you added stayed tight?? did you wrap it with duct tape or something??
cheers.

well if u goto bunnings and see the pvc im talking about is the perfect size and you cant see the pvc at all. (BTW you dont have to use the pvc, you can use metal or anything, but i was told to use pvc b/c its the cheapest, easiest and still reliable way to do it.)

and yeah it was secure, i took it for a test drive, ran it up to the speed de-limiter and when i got home it was all perfect. To secure it i used those metal thingers that came with the airfilter and the one that was used to attatch the old airfilter in. just screw it down tight enough and it wont come loose.

Tim

so the original mounting size of the FTO is 3.5" ... not 4" (coz it looks huge) .... I just want to clarify this... looking at the K&N website... the model you need for the GPX FTO is RE 0950 (this is the 3.5")... RE 0930 is the 3"...
Tim, did you also remove the other half of the airbox?? or did you leave it on?? what has the others done?? also, did you have to create some kind of suport so that the pod doesn't bounce up and down??

yeah the monting size is 3.5" (hence i had to use the PVC as a converter.)

I removed the top half of the airfilter box and left the bottom half in.
It stops the pod from bouncing around and sits in tit nicely, also acts as pipe so the air goes straight to the pod.
If you take the bottom half out then the air goes straight up, and you need an extra extention pipe so the pod goes directly over the air hole.

It'd be better if we could get a specially made box that can go directly around the airfilter acting as a heatshield and only gets cold air... perhaps Steve could help us out there??? :D:D:D

Tim

i just spoke to the guy from autobarn to tell him that the pod I got was too small...
I've measured the original hose and its diameter is approx 10.5cm.. but just the opening its approx 9.5cm (.5cm thickness I guess)... anyways...
he said I need to get the K&N that's 4" in size....
he said that the pod overlaps the existing tube... IS THAT CORRECT (you put the tube inside the pod then clamp it???
it thought it would have been the other way around... the filter goes inside the existing piping.. just like the original air filter box... which was inside the original piping... how did you do yours?? what is the correct way???