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Driveshaft Removal
Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 6:35 pm
by Nacho
Hey anyone here ever removed their own driveshafts? I would assume that anyone who has removed their engine has.
I am having trouble removing the driveshaft nut. I have removed the lock and sprayed a ton of WD40 on the nut and can't get it to budge with a 1m breaker bar.
Is there some kind of trick to doing this?
Also how do you stop the shaft from actually rotating when trying to undo this nut?
Re: Driveshaft Removal
Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 6:45 pm
by Bennoz
Nacho wrote:Hey anyone here ever removed their own driveshafts? I would assume that anyone who has removed their engine has.
I am having trouble removing the driveshaft nut. I have removed the lock and sprayed a ton of WD40 on the nut and can't get it to budge with a 1m breaker bar.
Is there some kind of trick to doing this?
Also how do you stop the shaft from actually rotating when trying to undo this nut?
Other wheel has to be on the ground & the car in gear, or get someone to put their foot on the brake. Make sure your jacks & wheel chocks are all in solid spots. Best way to get it off (and im assuming you've removed the spilt pin) is to use impact tools - ie a big rattle gun. If not, get a biger breaker bar!
Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 7:10 pm
by Nacho
If the car is a tip then it also has to be in gear? I think this is the bit that I needed to hear that wasn't in the workshop manual!
Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 7:39 pm
by Bennoz
Ahhh, no if its tip, put it in park.
Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 8:14 pm
by Nacho
Thanks Ben! Got the passenger side off. Drivers side is on way too tight. I've bent my wrench and it's a Sidchrome!
I think I'll let it soak in WD40 for a week.
Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 8:19 pm
by Bennoz
Nacho wrote:I've bent my wrench and it's a Sidchrome!
I think Sidchrome have dropped the ball since being bought out by the Japs! I sheared the 1/2 inch drive completely off my long socket arm the other day
Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 8:34 pm
by Nacho
I've sheared off a drive once also but the socket extension was made in Taiwan.
Does the driver side driveshaft nut loosen anti-clockwise like a normal nut? Or is it one of those 'special ones'?
Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 9:27 pm
by oldie
If your able to replace the nut, using a suitable size drill, drill the nut through the bottom of the split pin slot down to the washer, repeat on opposite side then split the nut with a cold chisel. Good luck
Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 7:57 pm
by Nacho
I suppose that could be an option. I'm not gonna be using these driveshafts on this car anymore anyway.
But I would still like to retain the nut if I can help it for my daily driver. You never know what could happen these days.
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 3:51 pm
by Nacho
The driveshaft nuts are off and now the Mitsubishi Workshop Manual sucks. Which end am I meant to pry out? Driver's side or passenger side? And, do I need to remove those rubber breather thingies cause there's no room for the driveshaft to move to be pulled out.
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 3:57 pm
by Bennoz
Have you undone the bolts that connect the hub to the strut? It should come out of the wheel end...
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:00 pm
by Nacho
You mean the break hubs?
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:07 pm
by Bennoz
Yep, the whole wheel / brake assembly needs to be undone from the strut via those 2 bolts, the assembly will then move forward enough for you to pull the drive shaft out from behind.
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:10 pm
by Nacho
yep they're those bolts that bent my Sidchrome ratchet. The Kincrome did the job though.
So I just slide it towards to transmission case and pull it out just like that?
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:15 pm
by Bennoz
Yep, lean the hub out away from the car, then slide the shaft back towards the box & she should come free
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:26 pm
by jonowong
what wacky sh*t are you planning?! hmmm
Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 9:13 am
by Nacho
No wacky sh*t! Just pulling everything out of the engine bay. I will give you an update on the wacky sh*t once I buy the parts I need.
The hub won't budge at all. Do I need to remove the brake hubs? The shaft slides in towards the case but not enough.
Is it possible to remove the brake hubs without disconnecting the ball joint?
Any help on how to get this b*stard off would be much appreciated coz the driveshaft is the hardest bit to remove.
Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 4:45 am
by martgpx
Nacho wrote:The hub won't budge at all. Do I need to remove the brake hubs?
Any help on how to get this b*stard off would be much appreciated coz the driveshaft is the hardest bit to remove.
When removing mine I undid/split the steering track rod ends then removed the 2 strut bolts as Bennoz said. This then allows the suspension arm to drop far enough for the drive shafts to come through the wheel hub.
Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 11:58 pm
by payaya
the only reason I would think your removing the driveshaft is either one of your boots are cracked or the shaft is physically damaged.
If so take it to a mechanic they charged me $220.00 for a fully reco'd balance shaft plus $60.00 for installation.
Posted: Sat Nov 25, 2006 8:09 am
by Supplanter
payaya wrote:the only reason I would think your removing the driveshaft is either one of your boots are cracked or the shaft is physically damaged.
If so take it to a mechanic they charged me $220.00 for a fully reco'd balance shaft plus $60.00 for installation.
His plans are more evil than that
