How do I connect the second amp?

[mxysxy]

2 amps, 1 managing a sub, second one should manage the front splits.

I got stuck with connecting the second sub.
Headunit only have 1 set of RCA connection plugs, which says rear on it, for sub.

So where do I connect the RCA cables for the first amp?
I tried to connect to headunit Front L +/- just to see if it will work, which resulted in distortion.

Thanks for helping

Regards

Max Ungun

[devil2004]

you can buy Y-splitters from Jaycar or your local car audio place and split the RCA connections. Otherwise you can use high to low level converters to connect your amp to speaker wires.

[mxysxy]

you can buy Y-splitters from Jaycar or your local car audio place and split the RCA connections. Otherwise you can use high to low level converters to connect your amp to speaker wires.

Y splitter is a good idea,
wouldnt this eleminate the front/rear balance though?
I assume, if I set the balance to %100 front everything will go silent?

About the high/low converters, I have heard nothing else but negative comments, apparently introducing distortion to the system.
Have you ever used this option?

[msbchi]

By this I assume your head unit doesn't have a dedicated sub out, which basically means everything you do from here is a compromise. So apart from the MTX 801D that I gave you what is the other amp. Is it a four channel? if so run your split off the first two channels and split the raer witn a Y RCA. one set of RCAs to ron the 6x9s and the other set to the monoblock. Because you are splitting the signal you will have to adjust the fader to feed more power to the rear, a remote Bass control for the sub also helps. This is the least expensive way out. The next least expensive way is to purchase a multi channel crossover and split your signals that way, next is to buy a new head unit with a sub out RCA, but if you do that PLEASE DON'T outbid me for the Eonon E638 dvd/cd with bluetooth. Call me if you have any probs

[mxysxy]

here is the pic of the rear of my headunit



there is only 1 set of rca output which has "rear" written on it.
Is this supposed to be for the rear speakers or for sub?

The second amp is my old dodgy one, 2 channel, using it while I plan to purchase 4 channel to run all the speaker inside the car.

I think I will go with the electronic crossover way,
I cant find much info on this though, any idea how it works, how much, where to buy, etc..

[msbchi]

Also you MUST keep your power leads well away from your RCAs. I ran my RCAs under the cenre console. Buy 2 T block power connections, one for the + and one for the -. These make the power connections much less hassle and give a good looking finish, the trigger wire can just be split. Have you changed your mind again about running two subs, I thought you were only going to run the one? If you are running two then you just need to connect each sub to the speaker one and speaker two connections on the amp and run each sub parallel by connecting a wire from each set of the connections on each side of the speaker. Then test each item independantly by connecting up the 4 channel, leaving out the Y connector. Then disconnect the rear 6x9s and connect up your monoblockto test your subs. If there is no distortion then connect up the works, if there is check your settings on the amp, turn the boost, eq and frequency controls to 0, (anti clock wise) and then slowly increase each one. Don't get suckered by the boost it will increase the bass volume but also increase the ohm level.

[msbchi]

DISREGUARD everything that's been said as you only have one set of RCAs they should be for your sub. The rest is an eay fix. To run another amp you will need to connect via the "HIGH LEVEL INPUT CONNECTORS". I hope you still have them but if not it's not expensive to replace. On your amp there are two HIGH LEVEL INPUT CONECTIONS, one for the front and one for the rear. They are a little square plug socket with pins, all you need to do is connect them into the back of your head unit with the HLI connector which I hope you've still got.

[devil2004]

Y splitter is a good idea,
wouldnt this eleminate the front/rear balance though?
I assume, if I set the balance to %100 front everything will go silent?

About the high/low converters, I have heard nothing else but negative comments, apparently introducing distortion to the system.
Have you ever used this option?

as you've mentioned a Y splitter will mean that you won't be able to fade your fronts without fading your sub.

I have used the high to low converters in my system and I had no problems with distortion.

I would use the Y splitters and connect one amp to your sub and connect the other amp to your splits. Run your rears off the head unit. This will mean that if you fade your fronts, your sub will fade with it. Rears aren't that important, so you can fade your 6x9s almost completely.

Other options you have include what msbchi suggested, buy a new head unit or you can buy a new amp that will accept high level input. e.g. JL slash series.

[mxysxy]

I have bought 2 x Y RCA splitter today, and a tripple shielded RCA cable, the old one was introducing buzzing noise although was running far away from power cables,
Running the sub from the first amp, front splits from the second amp, rears from the headunit. If I fade off the rear, front splits and the amp goes off.
It works well now, sound quality is better than I though.
I will buy some high-low converters and will try them on next weekend, see which one is better.

Also, need a new 4-ch amp, to run all the speakers inside the car, headunit doesnt provide enough power, need a 4-ch amp, that can supply around 400-600rms

Thanks guys, so much mucking around for a sound system

[msbchi]

OH DEAR DEAR MAX, You should have taken the Bluapunkt amp as well as the MTX for the seat covers then all of your troubles would be over. I would have lost badly over the deal but would have been easier for both of us. Any way if you give me an idea of which 4 channel you want I'll see what I can do. If I were you though I'd probably just go for a mid level MTX as it will run your splits and rears with no probs but to wire up for best results get rid of the Y splitter and connect up through the Hlps

[msbchi]

A picture is worth a thousnd words so I have Emiald you a diagram + your pic should = 2000. A high/low converter will filter out the high level frequency so that you can run a sub and are not that effective as they do distort at peak levels, BUT you are trying to run your mid and high range from a sub out RCA which WILL smoke those lovely MTX splits and 6X9s. As you have no RCAs for those speakers you need to connect into the Front High Level Input for the splts (number 3 in the diagram) and the Rear High Level Input for the 6X9s (number 6 " " " ) If you no longer have the connectors then just go to any installer and ask for them as nobody uses them. (they are usually in the box when you purchase a new amp) You are the only person I know that doesn't have RCAs on his radio

[msbchi]

Also I just noticed that your crappy (AudioLine?) amp is only a two channel so you won't have the Rear High Level Input, it will have only one, so just connect up your splits to the HLI on the amp and run the 6X9s off the head unit till you get your 4 channel. Then use the diagram as I laid it out. This is the safest and best method. Helps if I read everything first and then reply

[mxysxy]

I have ditched the pissy amp, and buying another headunit with 3 sets of RCAs
What a waste of money

The new amp is MTX 1004, 4CH x 125RMS @ 4OHM,
The problem is it drains over 150amps and needs min 1/0 GA power cable, currently I have 4GA Stinger nicely inserted through the firewall, no drilling, with 150Amp fuse, havent used at all
What a waste of money

Has anyone used 1/0GA or 0GA in FTO?
How to insert through the firewall without drilling?
Is there any way to go under the car?
Also have this power distribution unit, which is pretty much redundant now, all Stinger
What a waste of money

Finally, I am assuming the alternator will sh*t itself pretty quickly, even though using a capacitor.
Is there a compatable alternator from Mitsu which will bolt straigt on, and more powerful?
Just reconditioned the current alternator
What a waste of money

[Supplanter]

Finally, I am assuming the alternator will sh*t itself pretty quickly, even though using a capacitor.
Is there a compatable alternator from Mitsu which will bolt straigt on, and more powerful?
Just reconditioned the current alternator
What a waste of money

I think MRDJ12345 68789474 (whatever his name is ) had managed to put GTO alternator parts in the FTO alternator casing to get more power out of it.

Edit: I was close

http://www.ftoaustralia.com/modules.php ... r&start=20

About halfway down the page.

[msbchi]

It's easier to run a second battery in the boot, then you won't need to drill through the firewall, and will only need a few feet of ) grade lead. This way you can run all the amps from the second battery, get one of the sealed type, approx $300. Also dont throw away the 4 guage as I need it to run my second amp, Finally got my Orion 4002 to match the 4004. Also, hate to be a told you so but TOLD YOU SO. BIG ICE = BIG HEAD-ACHES.

[mxysxy]

Bought one of these on the weekend, decided to run the 2nd battery and in the boot


http://cgi.ebay.com.au/REDARC-DUAL-BATT ... dZViewItem

Also bought, 3 sets of good Stinger RCA cables,
Stinger 2 x 150Amp + 1 x 250Amp Fuses and holders

3 mtrs of 1/0 GA power cable

bought a new Kenwood eXelon KDC-X969 Headunit with 4 sets of RCA outputs

Need to buy a sealed battery this weekend, and finalise the installation.

This is getting expensive.....