TCGPX wrote:If the switch is still turning on the dash lights, etc. then part of it is still operational.
Hook up the relay (they draw bugger all current compared to lights) to the part of the switch that's actually working and you don't need to replace it...
yeah my switch can still do that and rear brake lights as well
i called auto electrician they all qouted me $100+
can someone help me out or watch me when i attempt to do it
This is a little bit I wrote about it on a different thread. Hope it helps.
I used two parts both available from your local dick smith. A standard 12v auto relay and a wiring harness. The harness isn't required, but it costs bugger all and makes the job neater and easier. Total cost of parts $8.43.
The problem occurs when you're trying to put lots of current through a push button that's not rated for it. The solution is not running the current through the push button. This is where the relay comes in. The relay uses the smaller current to complete the heavier circuit. (If that makes sense.)
When the switch is pushed, there's a pair of wires that complete a +12 circuit. By running that pair of wires to the relay, you tell the relay to complete the heavier power circuit for the lights. No need to run any additional wires.
TCGPX wrote:If the switch is still turning on the dash lights, etc. then part of it is still operational.
Hook up the relay (they draw bugger all current compared to lights) to the part of the switch that's actually working and you don't need to replace it...
yeah my switch can still do that and rear brake lights as well
i called auto electrician they all qouted me $100+
can someone help me out or watch me when i attempt to do it
look, read up how a relay works, then work out how your switch works, then you'll understand how to wire everything up.
If so, check that you are getting power at the plug for the foglights first.
Even if you go for HID foggies, your going to be running them from the same wiring (Easy, but no good if the fault is in the wiring) or running new wiring completely for them (pain in the ass).
To fix the problem you need to find where the fault is first.
If you don't have a multimeter, get yourself a test light from your local auto parts store. They look kinda like a pen with a sharp metal point and a wire running out of the end. The wire usually has an alligator clip on the end.
Refer to my private msg. Dont worry bout the relay for now, find the postive wire (multimeter) bypass the switch (connect corresponding wires together) lights should light up.
