manual internals or box (no need for clutch, pedals, ect)

[millsy]

just got a manual box of a company, wouldnt click into 1st, (worked perfectly otherwise) took it to a tranny place, just got a call saying "box has had water in it, might aswell just scrap the box"

so has anyone got internals or a stand-alone box i could buy off them (cheaper than what it would be for a complete conversion). il let you keep all the clutch, diff, flywheel, shifter assembly (even the shifter assembly in the box which slides out) and everything. i may need a clutch slave cylinder as mine leaks a bit, so throw that in aswell.

postage would be quite easy for you if its just the 2 main gear assemblies (and clutch slave)

and no offers like over $400, u can get a whole tranny conversion for $500, and sell the clutch, pedals, shifter, ect ect for $300

so anyone up for $200? nego

or should i just brave it out n tell the guy to replace the problem gear, as there was no obvious problems with the other gears

[Bennoz]

Im confused. What are you trying to achieve? You wanting to buy or sell bits??

Epic number plate by the way

[millsy]

im looking for the 2 gear columns (with forks n rods). as mine are "water damaged". and everything else on my tranny is fine (clutch, diff, shifter, ect) so hopefully it will be cheaper if i just buy the gear columns as opposed to the whole box.

or do you recon i should just ignore what the transmission guy said and get him to replace the part to make it work, even though its water damaged (but still as smooth, fast and quiet as a non-water-damaged box)?

[Bennoz]

You mean gear 'clusters' - aka the input & output shafts?

Usually when water gets in, it ruins everything. Gears, selectors, diff the works. Its all in the one housing. Question is, how long was the water in it? Is there just surface rust on the teeth faces, or is it much worse... and just because it doesnt go into first, doesn't mean you need a new first gear, there are half a dozen parts involved in making that gear change, usually its the selector housing is having trouble sliding over the synco cone. It may be rusted / seized.

Can you get some pics up?

[millsy]

Got pics at home, but nothing seemed rusted, everything meshed and clicked very nicely. And i would say the sync had gone in 1st (gets into gear when the car is off, when the motor is running all you get is grinding and wont go into gear, or pops out of gear if you start it in 1st) so i would have said it was the sync for 1st. And nothing seemed rusted at all otherwise. And performed
Perfectly (except not going into 1st) (the lsd was taken out of my auto, so diff has no problem with rust either). Think il try risk it, im getting all new bearings aswell, so that will ease it up a bit.
I will go into the shop soon and let u guys know how it is, maybe save someone hastle in the future with a simular prob

[Bennoz]

Reason I ask is that I have half the parts you need..

I've got syncros & selectors... pretty sure I got a 1st lying around somewhere to..

Oh & an LSD from an auto wont fit... different final gear (ratio) and quite possibly different driveshaft diametres (25 spline vs 27)

[Shane001]

different final gear

Don't know that this will be a problem? The 2 gearboxes I've had apart had different rations, 74 vs 69 teeth on the diff gear, but both had 16 teeth on the shaft gear. Shaft gear looked the same on both.

[millsy]

talk to the tranny guy (and the guy who works with transmissions....... cough cough) and he just said that 1st should select, he can do it with his hand easy enough, so it might not have been alligned properly when i put it in. so he said to scrap it because all the bearings were damaged or rusted, and they are hard to find those bearings (as mitsubishi make everything themselves). so would anyone have the 4 or 6 main bearings for me? saves me waiting months for these wallys gettin them from japan or something.

and also, the lsd does fit, the crown gear from the gpvr auto and the manual are the same size, but slightly different ratio's thoughout, so it is a little clunky when turning hard at 2 kph, but at 10 kph its fine. i noticed that the crown gear (which is the term for that large gear you bolt to the actual diff) in the gpvr auto/manual is 5% bigger than a standard 5speed auto crown, so i think there is a difference from gpvr to gpx ratios, as the crowns are different

[Shane001]

sounds like you need to find yourself a new transmission shop

Also if you do a search I think Ben recently listed where to get a full set of bearings from, not that expensive either.

[Bennoz]

Im scared... and am slowly backing away from this thread. It can only end in tears.

Good luck!

[millsy]

ha, just before you go ben, have you got a place for bearings? or any ideas? ta

[Shane001]

Im scared... and am slowly backing away from this thread. It can only end in tears.

Good luck!

[Bennoz]

ha, just before you go ben, have you got a place for bearings? or any ideas? ta

Yeah mate, just go see your local bearing shop!

I went to a bloke at Riverstone called Sydney bearings & transmission, but just about any bearing shop like CBC, ABC or SKF bearing should be able to match them up.

Look, even through a quick google: http://www.rexbarberbearings.com.au/con ... r-bearings in Geelong.