FTO AUSTRALIA

I did

http://www.rb-performance.co.uk/catalog ... ucts_id/60

Had a look, it's only the center shaft which is not likely to fail, the shaft on the actual cv joint is what will fail first. So yeah waste of money

hey shane.. umm not too sure whats involved in reconditioning but the guy said you swap you driveshaft for their reconditioned one already for $100 per shaft.

When you talk to them again ask them if that includes new cv joints as well as boots & grease. If it does again I'd say that's pretty cheap

Came across these basicly universal joins to place inside of the other cv

http://www.torvec.com/products_cvjoint.html

Yep I'll ask them for ya Shane. I need to go back there anyway as one of the cv I got for the gear box is dying so I might swap it for a reco one. How can you tell the cv are gone? ATM sometimes when I turn the wheel left or right there's a clocking noise coming from the driver side. It's not all the time just sometimes. Is it safe to assume the cv is gone?

thts a pretty good bet mate

Yep that clicking noise is usually the cv's.

U can also check by putting the car up on stands and check for any twisting movement between the shaft and the joint. There should be no twisting movement in the joint.

Thats a very good price.

Reco shaft cost me 200 bucks about three years ago, so $100.00 for rebuilt shaft sounds about right?

is that for both left and right or just one of them?

hey guys just looked at cv joints on ebay and turns out
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mitsubishi-FTO-C ... 4155a58e09
is in auburn but they dont seam to have the inner cv joint comes with One outer CV Joint , One outer boot, One pair steel clamps ,One bag of CV Grease.
Joint Parts No MI-032
External Spline 25 spline
Internal Spline 23spline
Oil Seal 54 mm OD
Address : CV Joint Aust Pty Ltd

3 Alexander ST , Auburn , NSW 2144


what do you guys think ? and where can i get the inner one ? gallant by any chance

Yup, they're the ones to go for ^ Can't beat that price.

The inner joints rarely wear. The outer joints are designed to go first. If you do need inners, you'll need to go to Mitsubishi with your old ones
& have them matched up.... not cheap. The signs that your inners are going is an audible humming / groaning at high speed (100kph etc) - they
do not click like outers.

Yea well im pretty sure it was the inner boot that's split open
Not sure bout the humming to many other noises that shouldn't be there to pin point 1 noise
But im sure if the boot split then the joint can't be in that good of shape either even more so seeings there's no grease in there

Question is, how long has it been split?

Mayb a month now
Remember that time I posted bout the smoke in my engine bay yep pretty sure it was that day but only realised bout 2 weeks ago when I did that work on the car

It won't completely loose all grease & wear within the space of a month. I'd just repack it put the new boot on. They are hardened steel rollers in there.

You can also pull the shaft out & check the play in the joint. There should always be a small amount of play in the inner joint. Up to about 1mm of twisting play
(back & forth between shaft & joint) is ok.

yea i may borrow a grand back off mum and get my outa cvs done and clutch changed
are the boots universal or will i need to get a fto boot
from experience should i source parts my self or get the shop to

I'd take it to a shop. Getting the main castle nut off the end of the shafts is a compressor only job.

yea i ment should i buy the clutch and outer cv joints from that shop or so you think the shop i go to would get better deals on that sort of stuff

yeah thats where i got my cv done.. friendly people.