Kaze Fenders

[dstocks]

Have a spare set sitting in the shed from the group buy. Price is $475 for both fenders. Here is the group buy thread with pictures:

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=24621

These are currently at my property on the South Coast (NSW), but can deliver to Canberra or freight (at buyers expense).

Here is how they look painted (Will try and get a better pic soon):

[destinationtoby]

Ill take them definitely if u can get them freighted for under $100?

[Sahin]

Do it Toby!!!!

[dstocks]

That was quick. I can still get these made if anyone else wants a set - same price. Toby, will try and get the fibreglasser to give me a quote to send to you. Think that will be cheaper. As an alternative, will also weigh and measure as I think I might be able to squeeze into Aussie Post as well

[kiz]

Did anyone have any issues with these fitting correctly? I've thought about getting them but not sure if I'm up for incorrectly fitting fenders :/

[shadowarrior]

Trust me when i say... they looked to fit perfectly on all the cars I saw and they looked awesome

[dstocks]

They are fiddly. They fit well, but there is some adjustment required to get them perfect. I can say the end result was worth the effort though. Ill try and get some photos from different angles when I get the chance.

[kiz]

So no real work was necessary to fit them? I've still got to get my Ts rear bar correctly fitted and I don't really want to go through that with fenders too

[Vectose]

Rear bar was simple to fit compared to fenders. The fenders do require a bit of fiddling to get aligned properly.

[kiz]

Rear bar was simple to fit compared to fenders. The fenders do require a bit of fiddling to get aligned properly.

My rear bar didn't line up properly on the rear. Front Ts bar was no issue what-so-ever. Between that and my fiberglass bonnet not lining up 100% i'm over aftermarket body kits

[dstocks]

In that case, hold off for now. I think there are 3 of us that have fitted them so far, so possibly a little early to tell for sure. I can say they are fiddly. Took me a couple of hours to get it adjusted right.

Personally, found the rear bar fitted perfectly, but there was sanding to do on each side and a gap that needed filling where it meets the rear quarter panels. You may find that the holes drilled to fit the rear rheo were not positioned properly. Other than that, im not sure. I have seen at least seven or eight of them fitting pretty much perfectly now.

[kiz]

Yea i'm going to get some extra supports fiberglassed on the inside of the rear bar to get it pulled in on the sides. The actual bar fits perfect but between the tail lights and the rear wheel arch area is sits out a bit. Shouldn't be too much of an issue to fix. But i'll see how other people go with the fenders first

[destinationtoby]

Can't wAit to get these

[illmotion]

just when i needed new fenders haha these a perfect but freight might be bit expensive for me so might have to start saving

[dstocks]

I know the fibreglasser has frighted to WA before for people,so it might not be horrific. I can give you their number if you want and you can ask?

The actual bar fits perfect but between the tail lights and the rear wheel arch area is sits out a bit.

Sounds like you are a perfectionist like me (most haven't worried about those bits). I spent the extra time myself building in the original metal support brackets into the sides of my rear bar. They weren't able to do this as a part of the mould as its on the wrong side of the bar. I did this by attaching the brackets on each side to the car and then from memory putting dabs of reinforced auto putty on the points where it should attach to the bar. I then quickly fitted the bar and lent something heavy against the outside of the bar until it was perfect. When set, I removed bar with metal panels attached and added some more reinforced putty to make sure they didn't come off.Now that pulls the sides in that little bit extra.

With the bit between the lights, I used masking tape to protect the lights and fitted the rear bar. I then used auto putty to perfectly match the bar to the taillights. I did the same thing with the lip between the rear quarters and the top of each side of the bar.

Unfortunately, what you are encountering is the limitations of fibreglass mounds. They can only really do one side. Any brackets and things on the back have to be manually made. As a result, they only tend to do the ones that are absolutely necessary to keep the cost down. As a result, there is practically always preparation work required to get a "perfect fit". With the rear bar, the bits that could have been better in the mould are where the quarters meet the the tops of the bar. The rest was always going to be something that had to be done after.

[spetz]

Dwayne, what's the weight difference between them and stock?
And out of curiosity are the vents just for show or real? And if they are real does water just go on the chassis rail?

[dstocks]

OK, just lifted one of each and id say aftermarket are about 80% weight of stock, so slightly lighter. The vents do have holes, so yes, in essence they are real. You would have to go without wheel arch liners though and im not sure what rocks being flicked up by the wheels would do. Also not sure of the benefit they would really provide in reality. Most peoplw dont get their brakes hot enough to need something like that.

The upper vents are angled slightly down towards the outer side of the panel, so most of the water would run to that side and avoid the chassis rail completely. By the looks of things, about 1/3 of the vent is over the rail.The rest is outside the rail.

[kiz]

The actual bar fits perfect but between the tail lights and the rear wheel arch area is sits out a bit.

Sounds like you are a perfectionist like me (most haven't worried about those bits). I spent the extra time myself building in the original metal support brackets into the sides of my rear bar. They weren't able to do this as a part of the mould as its on the wrong side of the bar. I did this by attaching the brackets on each side to the car and then from memory putting dabs of reinforced auto putty on the points where it should attach to the bar. I then quickly fitted the bar and lent something heavy against the outside of the bar until it was perfect. When set, I removed bar with metal panels attached and added some more reinforced putty to make sure they didn't come off.Now that pulls the sides in that little bit extra.

With the bit between the lights, I used masking tape to protect the lights and fitted the rear bar. I then used auto putty to perfectly match the bar to the taillights. I did the same thing with the lip between the rear quarters and the top of each side of the bar.

Unfortunately, what you are encountering is the limitations of fibreglass mounds. They can only really do one side. Any brackets and things on the back have to be manually made. As a result, they only tend to do the ones that are absolutely necessary to keep the cost down. As a result, there is practically always preparation work required to get a "perfect fit". With the rear bar, the bits that could have been better in the mould are where the quarters meet the the tops of the bar. The rest was always going to be something that had to be done after.

Cheers, I did wonder about the metal support brackets on the side not being there. I will look into adding them because it's similar to what I was going to do anyways. I think I've still got my brackets at VipFTO's place with my facelift bars somewhere haha

[vipfto]

yip taken up precious garage space lol

[kiz]

yip taken up precious garage space lol

Oh i'm sorry, is it taking up the space where you want to do my turbo build on